The Frugivore Diet

Permaculture Spring garden

2020-05-24T03:26:27.000Z

Visit the blog to see more of what I'm up to and what's growing on, or follow me on Instagram @sillybunnns where you see updates and projects! Thanks for always supporting thr blog!

Vegans Living Off the land by Cass K

Free Land for Vegans in Tropical Belize

2017-10-12T19:19:27.000Z

Opportunity for a few select people to live in a remote off-grid, veganic permaculture orchard / food forest in a small intentional vegan community in the jungle of central Belize.Build your own tiny home and participate in community farming with love and sharing.Land is approximately 1 to 1.5 acres and house is up to 400 sq. ft.Visit:https://facebook.com/peacefulvillagecommunity https://facebook.com/FincadelsoulbelizeEmailpeacefulvillage@protonmail.com for more information.

Crop rotation: Fruits to Roots to Legumes to Leafs

2015-06-29T16:04:21.000Z

pic source: permaculture news

Growing the same crop in the same place for many years in a row disproportionately depletes the soil of certain nutrients. As I mentioned in last weeks post (here), crop rotation gives various nutrients to the soil, especially replenishing nitrogen in the soil. The focus on maintaining soil health ensures the health of the environment than more intensive systems brought on by Big Agri business.
Other reasons for rotating crops include: preventing soil erosion and compaction of the soil, preventing the progression of pathogens and pests which occurs when one species is continuously cropped.

Plants that uptake a lot of nutrients from the soil include Cabbage, Cauliflower, Brussels, and Broccoli. Because of this, gardeners should follow these heavy feeders with light feeders such as root vegetables, or follow with nitrogen fixing vegetables such as peas and beans.

Perennial plants need no crop rotation, of course, so I am specifically speaking on summer and winter annual plants.

pic source: Growers learning

Crop rotation works best as a three or four year garden plan because "this is the number of years it takes for most soil-borne pests and diseases to decline to harmless levels" (growveg).

Beans, which uptake nitrogen from the air, add nitrogen to the soil. This is why many farmers grow beans one year, then corn is grown the following year in the same place, because corn uptakes a lot of nitrogen from the soil.
"Every year the plants grown in each given area are changed, so that each group (with its own requirements, habits, pests and diseases) can have the advantage of new ground. If your beds are divided into four groups, this means that members of each plant family won’t occupy the same spot more than once in a four-year period" (growveg).

Dividing crops into four main groups (legumes, roots, leafs, fruits) becomes too simplified when practicing crop rotation. The growth habit of these groups does not bear on the classification of the plant. For example, potato and tomato are in the same family, so they may attract the same pests and uptake the same nutrients from the soil.

To begin incorporating crop rotation, first identify the crops you want to grow, and then keep plants of the same type together in one area. Remember that Brassicas follow legumes. For example, sow cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower on soil previously used for beans and peas.

GrowVeg provides a crop rotation table that may assist you when growing in four different areas:

Area 1	Enrich area with compost and plant potatoes and tomatoes (Solanaceae). When crop has finished sow onions or leeks (Allium) for an overwinter crop.
Area 2	Sow parsnips, carrot, parsley (Umbeliferae). Fill gaps with lettuce and follow with a soil-enriching green manure during winter.
Area 3	Grow cabbage, kale, arugula (Brassicas) during the summer and follow with winter varieties of cabbage and Brussels sprouts.
Area 4	If this is your second or subsequent year, harvest the onions or leeks previously growing here over winter. Then sow peas and beans (legumes). When harvest has finished, lime the soil for brassicas which will move from area three to occupy the space next.

Incorporating polyculture and companion planting, such as the three sister's method, offers more diversity and complexity within the same season or rotation. The three sister's is a polyculture system where corn, beans, squash are grown together. While the corn grows tall, the beans vine up the stalks and replenish nitrogen to the soil, while squash trails on the ground to prevent weeds growing amongst the vegetables. For more details on polyculture systems like three sisters method, go to my post on Permaculture here, No money, work, or tilling involved: Permaculture.

Companion planting and crop rotation offer many benefits, especially when growing on Hugelkultur mounds. This is another permaculture technique which I discuss in detail in the link I posted above. Hugelkultur is a layering system of decaying wood which adds nutrients and water within the soil through the fungal activity in decaying wood. From my experience after growing food on Hugelkultur mounds for the first time this year, I am amazed at the growth and productivity. I highly recommend adopting Hugelkultur in place of tilling practices.

Overall, the practice of crop rotation in sequence with companion planting and growing in Hugelkultur mounds will retain water deep in the soil, reduce watering while preventing erosion (maintains soil structure), avoids nutrient depletion in the soil, pests or soil-born disease, eliminating the use of fertilizers, and controls weeds.

On a final note, keep records of your garden and successes and failures. Play the scientist role, and do experiments, make observations, conclusions. Remember when beginning crop rotation, that members of any given family should not be grown in the same sport for more than one year. Secondly, vegetables from different groups can share a plot if they require the same conditions.

The overall message here today is that these permaculture practices reduce environmental pollution, reduce greenhouse gases from food production, reduce or eliminate any unethical treatment of insects, animals, and the environment.

Original post @ Crop rotation: Fruits to Roots to Legumes to Leafs

-Cassie Kinney

Back to Eden Gardening

2015-04-25T23:49:48.000Z

I am so very excited to start gardening this year because of this method!!

No more mud, no more weeds (or little that will be quick to pull-we already have sandy soil), nourished ground for more nutrients in our organic fruits and veggies!!

I just put up a video on youtube when we had our wood chip delivery, if you would like to see!

Please, please, please, subscribe and like and all that good stuff and comment - let me know what other information you'd like to know about what we're doing with our garden this year, any ideas, comments, questions are all welcome!! Let me know if I did something wrong or incomplete...I'm still new at this! All the best and fruitful gardens to you!

Edible Landcaping: All About Perennials (Flowers, herbs, & food)

2014-12-10T22:44:23.000Z

photo source: Gardening Forums

"Some perennial trees can live for thousands of years, while other plants, like lavender, live closer to 10" (SF Gate). Types of Perennials include (1) evergreen perennials like Begonia and banana; (2) deciduous perennials like the goldenrod and mint; (3) monocarpic perennials for example Agave and some species of Streptocarpus; (4) woody perennials such as maple, pine, apple trees; and (5) herbaceous perennials such as alfalfa, wheat grass, and Red clover.

The term Perennial is used to differentiate annuals and biennials which are shorter-lived plants. Small flowering (herbaceous) perennial plants die back every autumn and winter, then return in the spring from their root-stock. Through a form of vegetative reproduction rather than seeding, Perennials typically grow structures (bulbs, tubers, rhizomes) that allow them to adapt and survive periods of dormancy over cold or dry seasons during the year.

"Perennial plants can be short-lived (only a few years) or they can be long-lived, as are some woody plants like trees. They include a wide assortment of plant groups from ferns and liverworts to the highly diverse flowering plants like orchids and grasses"(Perennial Plants). For example, Tomato vines live several years in their natural tropical/subtropical habitat but are grown as "annuals" in temperate regions because they don't survive the winter.

Perennial plants are usually better competitors than annual plants (especially if growing in poor conditions), because their larger root systems will access water and soil nutrients deeper in the soil--why is why Perennial plants and trees dominate many natural ecosystems on land and in fresh water. In nature with other wild animals, we would be relying on Perennial fruit and nut trees, perennials flowers and herbs for food.

photo source

Generally gardeners want to grow Perennials in an effort to grow higher yields of food, and spend no time tilling, or re-planting next year. However, I suggest to continue to re-growing (or Propagating) perennials through dividing or cuttings. This will allow you to increase the number of plants in your garden without purchasing from a big-box-store.

"Once the plant's root structure is large enough, you can simply divide it into separate clumps and transplant...In late fall, follow these simple steps:

Determine whether the perennial should be divided: Check out the crown of the plant, which sits right at the soil's surface. If there are multiple crowns where leaves are growing, the plant is ready to divide.

Remove the plant from the soil: Use a shovel to dig around the plant and loosen it from the soil.

Root division: To avoid damaging roots, use a small garden fork to gently untangle the root structure into two clumps. Depending on how big the root structure is, you can continue to divide into smaller clumps.

Transplant: Replant the clumps into the soil, making sure to give each plant enough space to grow. This will depend on how large the expected root structure is - ask your local gardening store if you're unsure. Cover with soil, water and make sure the soil is moist throughout the winter. With luck, the rains should take care of that" (SF Gate).

Besides dividing plants, gardeners also root plants from cuttings. For example, "Cleanly cut a stem about 3 inches in length off of the plant, at a diagonal and above a node. Remove any leaves so that energy can be redirected into growing roots.

Encourage root growth: Cover the end with a root hormone powder (check your local gardening store) or a natural root stimulant.

Keep moist and warm: If left out in the air, the cutting will dehydrate and shrivel quickly. Dig a wide hole in moist soil, to ensure that the root powder does not scrape off the sides of the cutting as you place it in. Fill in with soil and keep well watered, well drained and warm.

Tug: To determine if the plant is ready to be transplanted into your garden, pull on it. If it pulls back - this time varies from plant to plant, but anywhere from one to four weeks later - you're good to go" (SF Gate).

photo source: Edible landscaping

According to Becca Badgett, gardeners should choose to grow "delicate and frilly flowers when choosing hardy perennial plants that are members of the Dianthus family, such as Sweet William and carnations. The herb yarrow provides frilly foliage and delicate blooms when used for cold climate gardening" (GardeningKnowHow). Becca Badgett also suggests growing Perennial plants from shortest to tallest around the borders of your home or yard (like in the picture below).

source: Small Yard Landscaping Ideas

For example, plant your taller plant in the back, like the Foxglove, Bugbane, Meadowsweet, Sneezeweed; and Echinacea, Delphinium, Aster, Chrysanthemum, False indigo, Tickseed, Bleeding heart, and Globe thistle. Shorter plants for the front of the garden include: Ajuga, Spurge, Sea thrift, and Wormwood.

Here I have provided a list of Common Perennial food, trees and flowers that grow in almost any region:

Wild edibles with Sergei Boutenko

Herbs &Vegetables

Alfalfa

Asparagus

Caucasian Spinach

Fennel

Garlic Chives

Ginger

Good King Henry

Groundnut

Ramps (Wild Leeks)

Rhubarb

Scallions

Sorrel

Sunchokes

Sylvetta

Thyme

Watercress

photo source

Fruit & Nut Trees

Apples

Apricot

Beech nut

Blackberry

Blueberries

Cape gooseberries

Cherries

Gooseberries

Grapes

Hickory nut

Paw paw

Peaches

Pears

Plums

Raspberries

Strawberries

Walnut

photo source

Flowers

African lily

Bee Balm

Bleeding Heart

Canna lily

Chrysanthemums

Common thrift

Daffodil

Dahlia

Day lilies

Echinacea

Hosta

Goldenrods

Hellebore

Larkspur

Monkshood

Peony

Queen-of-the-prairie

Spiderwort

Summer daisy

Solomon's Seal

Virginia bluebell

Zinnia

If you read my post "List of Shade & Cold tolerant plants" from weeks ago, some of the names of Flowers and vegetables may sound familiar. Many of the shade and cold tolerant flowers and vegetables I listed in that post were Perennial plants. For example, Ferns, Hostas, Bee Balm, Viola, Solomon's Seal are Perennial plants that tolerate shade and cold climates.

Some of the Flowers I listed above are growing in my Grandmother's Perennial Flower garden. She grows Bee Balm, Butterfly bush, Tulips, Phlox, Iris, Dahlia, and Yarrow. These flowers are cold hardy, growing in Zone 6 (my region) and as cold as USDA Zone 3. I have taken many photos of her flowers, which you can see in this post: Floral Photography 2014.

Edible Landscape Design made an Extended list of other Perennial fruit trees and vegetables I did not mention, which you can see here: A list of Perennials to Get You Started. I highly recommend reading my Extensive list of Uncommon Fruit trees and fruit bushes because it provides a list of Cold Hardy Perennial Foods for Edible Landscaping. Click the link to the article and read how to grow each of these Fruits: List of Uncommon Cold Hardy Fruit Trees (Gardening Zones 3-7).

References from GardenGuides, SF Gate, GardeningKnowHow and Permaculture Research Institute.

Original post @ Edible Landcaping: All About Perennials (Flowers, herbs, & food)

-Cassie K, Vegans Living Off the Land

List of Uncommon Cold Hardy Fruit Trees (Gardening Zones 3-7)

2014-11-16T18:05:01.000Z

The hardiest fruit trees are Apples, Pears, and Plums which survive Zone 3 temperatures (-30 degrees to -40 degrees Fahrenheit). In Zone 4, many varieties of berries, Plums, Persimmons, Cherries, and Apricots do very well. In Zone 5 there are more options such as Peaches, Mulberries, and Paw paws. These zones receive temperatures as low as 20 or 30 degrees below. Fortunately I can grow more types of fruit in my gardening zone 6 and 7. Zone 6 receives temperatures of 0 degrees through -10 degrees F during the Winter while Zone 7 receives temperatures of 10 degrees through 0 degrees F.

Because I have listed below Fruits I can grow for my area, you may want to investigate each fruit for your area. For example the Paw paw fruit is adapted for Zones 5-9, so if you live in Zone 3 or 4, you may not be able to grow the Tree in a permanent location, but you may be able to grow Fruit trees in a large pot. Some of you in Rental homes, apartments, or Urban situations, can grow Fruit trees in containers. Last week I posted several pictures and list a exotic Fruit trees which can grow in large pots instead of in a permanent location. Go to Grow Veggies & Fruit trees in Containers for the details.

Apples are the most common Fruit trees I see growing in my community. Because Apples are one of the most hardy fruits, I highly recommend everyone in a colder climate to grow an Apple Orchard if you cannot grow any other Fruit trees.

I did not want to focus on the most common Fruits, however. In this post I wanted to present a list of unique or uncommon Cold hardy fruit trees which can be grown from Gardening Zones 3-7:

Chinese Jujube
Ziziphus jujuba

"Jujube grows throughout most of the southern half of North America. For best crops, the tree needs a long growing season and hot and dry weather during ripening. About the only parts of the United States where jujube can't grow are in the North (USDA Zones 5 and colder) and the Gulf Coast where summer rain and humidity prevent optimum fruiting...average winter minimum temperatures between -5° F (zone 6) and -15° F (zone 5) are the likely hardiness limits, trees have survived -25° F" (NGA.) From what I have seen, the Jujube fruit looks like a small apple, then once it has dried on the tree, it simulates a Date fruit. They are absolutely sweet and crunchy.

photo source: LA Eco-village Gardeners' weblog

Ice Cream Banana
Musa acuminata × balbisiana 'Blue Java'

Ice Cream (Blue Java) Banana is a cold tolerant banana plant with texture and flavor similar to vanilla ice cream. This banana tree has beautiful large leaves and produces medium bunches of silvery blue bananas that are very delicious fresh or cooked. Mature banana tree reach 12 to 15 feet in height. The leaves are a silver-green color. The fruit peel appears blue-green in color. Many rate this banana the best tasting, which is fortunate considering it can withstand Zone 6 temperatures. Most gardeners recommend covering the entire plant in leaf material and mulch to "winterize" the plant. Even most Zone 6-7 gardeners wrap their banana tree with other protection like bubble wrap, blankets, and tarpaulin. In the photo below, a Musa basjoo banana tree is protected with straw and wire mesh to guard against cold temperatures.

source: photoshelter

photo source: Gator Ventures

Paw-Paw Tree
Asimina triloba

With huge leaves that look more at home in the jungle, the Paw Paw is actually an "Eastern U.S. native, hardy to -25° F! A forest understory tree quite happy in shade, it also tolerates full sun. The fruits, weighing up to a pound each, are rich, sweet, and custard-like, with hints of banana and vanilla. 15 to 30 feet tall. Plant at least two for pollination. Very Cold-Hardy. Rediscover this neglected American classic! Zones 4-9" (ManchesterGardenClub).

photo: eat the weeds

Hardy Chicago Fig

Ficus carica

Also known as 'Bensonhurst Purple' whose origins are from Sicily, this tree can take sub-freezing temperatures, die back to the ground in the winter, and then re-sprout in the spring and bear Fall fruit on new growth. It is quite suitable for growing in a pot or a greenhouse. "The secret to winter survival is to keep it reasonably dry and above 10°F for the stem or -25°F for the roots. Of course, a fig grown in this manner will take on a shrub-like form rather than a standard tree-form. If a tree shape is desired it would be best to pot it up and sink the container into the ground, then dig it up in late Fall and store it in a garage; 40°F would be ideal, but above 25°F is sufficient Alternatively, the tree could be taken inside and treated as a house plant" (ManchesterGardenClub).

Other varieties of Figs, such as Celeste and Brown Turkey fig trees are also cold tolerant, withstanding Zone 5 temperatures. Remember to wrap Fig trees the first few Winters with cloth and plastic and/or heavily mulching with leaves.

photo: Growing Greener in the Pacific Northwest

Cold Hardy Kiwi

Actinidia arguta

The hardy kiwifruit is native to northeastern Asia, tolerating temperatures as low as -25°F. In the eastern United States, the commercial kiwifruit grows only as far north as Maryland, and they are sensitive to late spring frosts. The small fruit is smooth skinned unlike commercial kiwis with fuzzy skin. "Purchase at least one male plant for every nine female plants to ensure pollination and fruit set. Avoid planting in frost pockets. Sites with northern exposure are good because they delay early growth in spring, which can be damaged by late frosts. Construct a trellis system or otherwise support vines...Kiwifruit will not reach maturity and flower until about their fifth year." (Cornell University).

photo: Edible Landscaping

Che

Cudrania Tricuspidata

The Che is related to the Mulberry, but the Che fruit looks identical to the Lychee fruit, resembling a brain. The Che is Native to many parts of eastern Asia from the Shantung and Kiangson Provinces of China to the Nepalese sub-Himalayas. It became naturalized in Japan many years ago, and later was introduced into England and other parts of Europe around 1872, and in 1930 was introduced to the U.S.

"The Che requires minimal care and has a tolerance of drought and poor soils similar to that of the related mulberry. It can be grown in most parts of California and other parts of the country, withstanding temperatures of -20° F...They perform best in a warm, well-drained soil, ideally a deep loam" (California Rare Fruit Growers).

photo: SF Gate

Passion Fruit (Maypop)

Passiflora incarnata

This hardy perennial plant thrives in climates of -25 degrees F. The plant can be grown in Zones 5-11.

Ideal for containers in any climate and very easy in the garden, Maypop reaches 8 to 12 feet long. It will die back completely to the ground in winter and not reappear until late spring.The fruit appears egg-shaped and the flavor will remind you of Passionfruit, while the aroma is musky. The leaves are 5 to 6 inches wide and up to 8 inches long.

source: 40 acre Woods

Gooseberry
Ribes uva-crispa

"Indigenous to many parts of Europe and western Asia, growing naturally in alpine thickets and rocky woods in the lower country, from France eastward, well into the Himalayas and peninsular India" (Gooseberry). Gooseberries grow best in summer humid, cool regions with great winter chilling. Gooseberries are deciduous shrubs, fast growing, and reaches 3 feet tall and 6 feet wide. Gooseberries look like veiny Grapes, usually red or green in color.

photo: My Gardener's Table

Quince

Cydonia oblonga

"The fruit is much more common through South America, Europe and the Middle East than it is in North America. You can grow quince between zones 4 and 9, as they can tolerate freezing temperatures during the winters as long as the flowers aren’t hit with a late hard frost. Quince fruit is very tart and sour even when mature..." (Backyard Gardening). Since quince have naturally shallow roots, they may survive in large containers, and may also grow like a bush rather than a tree. They take three years to begin producing fruit.

photo: Wayward Spark

Goumi

Elaeagnus multiflora

Native to the Far East, this shrub reaches 4 to 6 foot tall. Self-fertile, not bothered by pests or diseases, tolerates a wide range of soils, and fixes nitrogen in the soil. Goumi plants have silvery leaves underside. They begin producing fruit in two to three years, with fragrant creamy-white flowers in May followed by tasty and aromatic red fruits. Looks like a Goji Berry fruit, but with hints of cherries, apples and black currant flavor. Grows well in USDA gardening Zones 4-9.

photo: Whitman Farms

Currants

Ribes

"Red, pink and white currants belong to three European species (Ribes rubrum, R. petraeum, R. sativum). Black currants are related to European (R. nigrum) and Asian (R. ussuriense) species.

Other Related Species are the Gooseberry (Ribes grossularia, R. hirtellum), Buffalo Currant (R. aureum), Jostaberry (R. nigrum X hirtellum). Currants grow best in summer humid, cool regions with great winter chilling. They are best adapted to USDA Hardiness Zones 3 through 5...Bushes grown from seed bear when two or three years old" (CRFG).

photo: Land of 10,000 Tomatoes

Cranberry

Vaccinium macrocarpon

Cranberries are low, creeping shrubs or vines up to 7 ft long and 2 to 8 in in height. They "have slender, wiry stems that are not thickly woody and have small evergreen leaves. The flowers are dark pink, with very distinct reflexed petals, leaving the style and stamens fully exposed and pointing forward. They are pollinated by bees" (Cranberry). The berry is initially white, turning into a deep red when fully ripe. Has an acidic taste that can overwhelm its sweetness. Cranberries require an adequate fresh water supply, and a growing season that extends from April to November. They "grow on low-lying vines in beds layered with sand, peat, gravel and clay. These beds are commonly known as bogs or marshes and were originally created by glacial deposits...Cranberries are grown through the northern part of the United States. The major production areas are New Jersey, Massachusetts, Oregon, Washington, Wisconsin and the Canadian provinces of British Columbia and Quebec. Other regions grow cranberries as well, to varying extent, and these include Delaware, Maine, Michigan" (CCCGA).

photo: The 3 Foragers

Elderberry

Sambucus canadensis

The American elderberry is a common plant that takes little effort to forage. It is not a rare plant, in fact I consider this plant to be a weed, considering I have identified them on the sides of roads, in the woods, and in yards. Elderberries grow all over North America, so you will not have problems finding/growing this plant. Elderberries fruit best when you plant at least two different varieties. They start producing the first year of transplant but will take 2 to 3 years to produce fruit from seed. When I have harvested elderberries, I found them to be sour in taste; but if that is your thing, there are several varieties of the American elderberry that are good fruit producers, like the Adams, Black beauty, Black Lace, Johns, Nova, Variegated, and York (NGA). Some would say the Poke plant bears fruit similar to the Elderberry, as well as the plant Devil's Walking Stick.

Photo: Gardening Know How

Mulberry

Morus

"Morus alba, white mulberry, and M. nigra, black mulberry, are native to China. Morus rubra, red mulberry, is a North American species, ranging from the mid-Atlantic to Florida and west to Nebraska and Texas. Morus nigra is cultivated throughout Europe for its large, sweet-tart fruit. Morus alba is the hardiest, surviving –25F. and colder, though its fruit quality varies greatly.
The genus name Morus is derived from the Latin ‘mora,’ which means ‘delay,’ and refers to the late leafing habit of the mulberry...This delay ensures that its fruit buds appear well after danger of frost has passed...Mulberries are 30- to 50-foot, fast growing, long-lived deciduous trees with alternate, simple, lobed to undivided leaves. Leaves on one tree can be lobed and [un-lobed]. Though both monoecious (male and female flowers on one plant) and dioecious (male and female flowers on separate plants), many trees are self-pollinating. Trees are also known to change sex. The tree flowers inconspicuously in late spring on the current season’s wood and on spurs of old wood...Fruits, which ripen in midsummer, are small fleshy drupes, resembling a tightly beaded blackberry. Fruit color ranges from white to lavender to red and purplish-black. Some mulberries are seeded, though I have known over two dozen trees and never met a seed. The flavor is mild and very sweet, but M. alba is said to lack the perfect blend of sweetness and tartness of M. nigra. I have tasted only M. alba and love it. If I need the tartness for any reason, I mix in some under-ripe fruits. As I noted before, beware: The dark fruit stains badly" (MOFGA).

photo: Daley's Fruit Tree Blog

Chokeberry

Aronia melanocarpa

This shrub can be planted in Zones 3-8., and usually grows to 3-6' tall and wide, though it can be up to 10' in width.You can plant the black chokeberry in either full sun or partial shade...Black chokeberry has dark green leaves that are 1-3" long and lanceolate or elliptical in shape. In the fall they change to reddish hues, similar looking to the Blueberry bush. "The white flowers appear during springtime and come in clusters called corymbs. The fruit produced is a small black pome that has tannins which pack pucker power" (Myers).

Photo: Permaculture News

Jostaberry

Ribes × nidigrolaria

"Jostaberries are hybrids of black currant and the American gooseberry, R. hirtellum, produced in Germany, 1930s-50s... The bush is very tall, thorn-less, tends not to branch and requires the space of 2 currant bushes. The foliage is glossy, larger than gooseberry, lobed, scentless and resists mildew. It survives full sunlight but requires much winter chilling. The lateral buds usually shed, leaving blind branches. Purple or brownish-red fruit are borne on lax, few-berried strigs. They are the size of small gooseberry and lacking in flavor, suitable only for experimentation. Buffalo currant produces comparable fruit more abundantly in less space and is recommended instead" (CRFG).

photo: Grow your own

Saskatoon (Serviceberry)

Amelanchier alnifolia

"Native to North America from Alaska across most of western Canada and in the western and north-central United States. Historically, it was also called "pigeon berry". It grows from sea level in the north of the range, up to 2,600 m (8,530 ft) elevation in California and 3,400 m (11,200 ft) in the Rocky Mountains...Saskatoons are adaptable to most soil types with exception of poorly drained or heavy clay soils lacking organic matter. Shallow soils should be avoided, especially if the water table is high or erratic. Winter hardiness is exceptional, but frost can damage blooms as late as May. Large amounts of sunshine are needed for fruit ripening. With a sweet, nutty taste, the fruits have long been eaten by Canada's aboriginal people, fresh or dried" (Amelanchier alnifolia).

photo: Flora of Eastern Washington and Adjacent Idaho

Sea Buckthorn (Seaberry)

Hippophae rhamnoides

"The plant is a thorny shrub that can survive the harshest weather conditions. As it turns out the Prairies are an ideal habitat for Sea Buckthorn...Sea Buckthorn has an extensive rooting system and a nitrogen fixation property. Seabuckthorn has been planted to rejuvenate marginal land and soil conservation" (Solberry Seabuckthorn). Sea Buckthorn is an "incredibly important natural resources in the mountainous regions of China and Russia, and the Canadian prairies. The plant will grow naturally in both sandy, and clay soils. In fact the plant will thrive in nearly any soil type, but it is extremely intolerant of shady planting sites. The shrubs themselves are also very cold-hardy. The plants can withstand winter temperatures of up to -40 degrees Celsius (-43 degress F). It is also commonly found growing at high altitudes of 4000 to 14000 feet" (Sea buckthorn insider).

photo

Russian Pomegrante

Punica granatum

Pomegranates prefer semi-arid and mild temperate climate with cool winters/hot summers. It can grow in the sunniest part of the yard with well drained sandy soil as well as rock gravel. The plants can take considerable drought but must be irrigated for fruit production. Pomegranates develop into round bushy small trees 6 to 8 feet tall except dwarf varieties ranging from 3 to 7 feet. In warmer climates with longer growing seasons will have larger bushes (up to 15 feet tall)" (Edible Landscaping). Pomegranates are self pollinating, but it's encouraged that another pomegranate tree is present for pollination. It will take 2-3 years to start bearing fruit. The Russian Pomegranate survives USDA gardening Zones 6-10.

photo: Edible Landscaping

Lingonberry (Cowberry)
Vaccinium vitis-idaea

This shrub is native to the Arctic tundra throughout the Northern Hemisphere from Eurasia to North America. It reaches 12 to 18 inches in height. "It is extremely hardy, tolerating temperatures as low as −40 °C (−40 °F) or lower, but grows poorly where summers are hot. It prefers some shade (as from a forest canopy) and constantly moist, acidic soil. Nutrient-poor soils are tolerated but not alkaline soils" (Vaccinium vitis-idaea). Because it is so cold tolerant, the berry does not produce reliably in warmer climates like Zone 9-11. "Lingonberries are self-pollinating, but cross-pollination will produce larger fruits that ripen earlier...Bumblebees are the best natural lingonberry pollinators. Plants need two to three years to begin bearing good crops" (NGA).

photo: Alaska in Pictures

The Medlar
Mespilus germanica

"Indigenous to southwest Asia and also southeastern Europe, especially the Black Sea coasts of Bulgaria and of modern Turkey. It may have been cultivated for as long as 3000 years...Requires warm summers and mild winters and prefers sunny, dry locations and slightly acidic soil. Under ideal circumstances, the deciduous plant grows up to 8 metres (26 ft) tall" (Mespilus germanica). Generally has a lifespan of 30-50 years, and is shorter and more shrub-like than tree-like.

photo source

Hawthorn berry

Crataegus

"Native to temperate regions of the Northern Hemisphere in Europe, Asia and North America. The name "hawthorn" was originally applied to the species native to northern Europe, especially the common hawthorn C. monogyna, and the unmodified name is often so used in Britain and Ireland. The name is now also applied to the entire genus and to the related Asian genus Rhaphiolepis...the Common Hawthorn, C. monogyna, are edible but the [flavor] has been compared to over-ripe apples...the fruits of the species Crataegus pinnatifida (Chinese hawthorn) are tart, bright red, and resemble small crabapple fruits." (Crataegus).

photo source

Silver buffaloberry

Shepherdia argentea

This thorny, deciduous shrub grows up to 20 feet tall. It is native to northern and western North America. The plant grows in USDA Zone 2, so it tolerates cold winters, drought and also tolerates infertile soil.

photo: Blackfoot Native Plants

Thimbleberry
Rubus parviflorus

"Native to western and northern North America, and the Great Lakes region...Thimbleberry fruits are larger, flatter, and softer than raspberries" (Rubus parviflorus). The plant reaches up to 10 feet tall and blooms white petals. The leads grow to 10 inches long, fuzzy, deciduous maple-like shape. The plant needs Full sun to shade with moist to dry, humus rich soil. "Thimbleberries do not grow well on sandy or gravelly soils, but in the Northwest, a small percentage grow in wet soils" (Rainy side Gardeners).

photo: Health Home Gardening

This list of Fruit bushes and trees are a fraction of what is possible to grow in cold climates. As plant species continue to cross-pollinate, there will be that much more fruit to grow. Of course there are many more varieties of Berries and Currants that grow in cold climates, For example, Sourberry (Rhus trilobata), Wax Currant (ribes cereum), American silverberry (elaeagnus commutata), Creeping barberry (mahonia repen), boysenberry, huckleberry, dewberry, tayberry, youngberry, and Marionberry.

Do not limit yourself to fruit bushes and common cold hardy fruits. From GardenWeb.com, one gardener said he was growing a Papaya tree in Zone 5/6a, which he grows in a container outside during the Summer, and he brings the Papaya tree inside during the Winter next to a South facing window. I was very shocked that he even posted pictures of his Papaya harvest. Click the link for details and pictures of the Papaya growing in a cold climate: Fruiting Papaya in Zone 5/6.

Northern gardeners grow sub tropical fruits like Limes, Lemons, Mandarin oranges, as well as tropical pineapple and Mangoes in containers. When growing Fruit plants in containers, you will be able to relocate the fruit inside your home or in a greenhouse where it will be protected over winter. I have a post on Growing Fruit in Containers: Grow Veggies & Fruit trees in Containers (Limited Space & Urban gardening.

If Papaya can be grown in a container or in a greenhouse, I believe Feijoa, Surinam Cherry, Pineapple Guava, Cold Hardy Avocado, Cavendish Banana, Dragon fruit, and Loquats can be grown in cold to mild climates such as Zone 4-7. Growing many of the varieties of Tropical fruit trees can be achieved through Underground Greenhouses, growing in containers indoors, compost heating/Hugelkultur methods, artificial lighting/heating.

Original post @ List of Uncommon Cold Hardy Fruit Trees (Gardening Zones 3-7)

-Cassie K, Vegans Living Off the Land

Garden expansion through Hugelkultur

2014-11-05T20:11:50.000Z

For over a month now I have collected logs, limbs, and leaves from the woods. I am slow to haul logs through the woods to my house because some weigh as much as 100 pounds. I usually roll the large pieces of log, and carry the logs that weigh less than 50 pounds. Some of the logs that weigh between 50-100 pounds are the ones I drag with a rope. Most of the wood and other tree matter is easy to collect because it's not far from my house, but that means carrying heavy logs for several hundred yards.

James has busted up some of the large pieces of tree. Larger pieces cover the bottom of the Hugelkultur mound, then limbs/branches/twigs are placed in the middle, then leaves are spread over top of the mound. The leaves will trap heat while the logs and sticks retain moisture. Over time the leaves decay over the rotting logs and become rich dirt like the ground floor of a forest. I find this method to be the most rewarding, beneficial, and efficient way to grow food.

Our experiment has been placing logs/leaves in the walkways of our Summer's Tomato garden. Considering we had 10 double rows of Tomatoes, we have made 12 Hugelkultur beds within our garden.
Attached to our Summer's Tomato garden was at least 5 rows of Pepper plants, which we have mulched with pine needles and leaves; but I doubt we turn this portion of the garden into a Hugel bed because it will be too close to the Cob home we're building within the Garden. I posted a video of the Hugelkultur mounds along with the Cob home trench in the video below. The video was from a couple of days ago when I had not added three additional rows of Logs, but you can see the photos afterwards of the progress so far. I will have an updated video soon so that you can get the "full experience" of the Hugel garden.

As mentioned, there are 13 rows of logs and tree matter. In the photo below are the first Four rows which contain long thin logs.

The photo below shows you the following Four rows covered in leaves. These four rows are the Middle rows, which are nearly completed, while the other Nine rows contain only logs.

In the next two photo are three rows with large pieces of logs.

The photo below shows you the last couple of rows.

Yesterday I collected the three logs you see in the photo below. Essentially, I rolled each of them from the woods to my house. The biggest chunk was nearly 100 pounds and the other two were 60-70 pounds. James then busted the logs into smaller pieces, which will allow them to decompose much faster.

It's difficult to show you the entire garden in one frame, which is why I highly recommend watching my videos that I post on Youtube. The goal here is to transform the 13 rows into 13 Hugelkultur mounds. Once we limbs/branches/twigs/leaves over the logs, we will then add mulch/dirt/compost and other material which will help quickly break down tree matter into soil.

One other Hugel bed I am working on is seen in the next two pictures. The bed is approximately 3 ft wide, 3 ft tall, and 15 ft long. Weeks ago I began placing long, thin logs at the bottom of the bed, then sticks, twigs, then leaves. After several layers of leaves, I added Natural black mulch on top.

Mulch to go on top of the Hugel bed

Original post @ Garden expansion through Hugelkultur

-Cassie K, Vegans Living Off the Land

No money, work, or tilling involved: Permaculture

2014-10-11T02:29:20.000Z

Picture from Natural Ways

Permaculture, also known as "Permanent Agriculture" or "Permanent Culture" encompasses Seven functional components that act like a Forest: 1. The canopy (i.e. tall trees); 2. Understory layer (i.e. trees that revel in the dappled light under the canopy); 3. Shrubs (i.e. berry bushes); 4. Herbaceous Plants (i.e. annuals, biennials or perennial culinary and medicinal herbs); 5. Ground cover (i.e. Cover crops such as clover or any Plants that grow dense and closer to the ground); 6. Rhizosphere (i.e. Root layers within the soil like fungi); 7. Vertical layer (i.e. "runners" and Vining plants like beans).

According to Holmgren, the Twelve Permaculture design principles include:

Observe and interact: By taking time to engage with nature we can design solutions that suit our particular situation.
Catch and store energy: By developing systems that collect resources at peak abundance, we can use them in times of need.
Obtain a yield: Ensure that you are getting truly useful rewards as part of the work that you are doing.
Apply self-regulation and accept feedback: We need to discourage inappropriate activity to ensure that systems can continue to function well.
Use and value renewable resources and services: Make the best use of nature's abundance to reduce our consumptive behavior and dependence on non-renewable resources.
Produce no waste: By valuing and making use of all the resources that are available to us, nothing goes to waste.
Design from patterns to details: By stepping back, we can observe patterns in nature and society. These can form the backbone of our designs, with the details filled in as we go.
Integrate rather than segregate: By putting the right things in the right place, relationships develop between those things and they work together to support each other.
Use small and slow solutions: Small and slow systems are easier to maintain than big ones, making better use of local resources and producing more sustainable outcomes.
Use and value diversity: Diversity reduces vulnerability to a variety of threats and takes advantage of the unique nature of the environment in which it resides.
Use edges and value the marginal: The interface between things is where the most interesting events take place. These are often the most valuable, diverse and productive elements in the system.
Creatively use and respond to change: We can have a positive impact on inevitable change by carefully observing, and then intervening at the right time.

Some Permaculture practices use animals like chickens or ducks to eat pests while fertilizing the garden with their scat. Also some people that practice permaculture will have chickens to eat their eggs or to eat the chicken. Obviously I am not promoting this type of Permaculture practice. I am specifically speaking for Vegan Permaculture practices where no animals are involved in the process. The use of animals may be "natural" to some, but I see nothing natural about domesticating an animal. Perhaps going into the woods and reclaiming deer scat isn't unethical and maybe this is a "Vegan" way to utilize manure. But again, we can use our own human waste for compost/nitrogen.

Overall, Permaculture is an ethical, ecological, and science based gardening design that practices sustainability, avoids chemicals, and machinery (that runs on petroleum oil). This philosophy extends to avoiding the exploitation of land and animals. The idea is to recreate the aspects of a self-healing, self-working food forest. Fruit and nut trees and fruit bushes maintain themselves. In fact they continually add loads of seeds to the ground every year, creating more fruit and nut trees. Fruit and nut trees provide pounds of food for years and even decades. Perennial flowers and herbs also grow year after years providing and aesthetically pleasing garden/yard. As many Perennial flowers you can add to your garden the better. As long as you can keep many bees around, you will be able to pollinate your fruits and vegetables.

In Permaculture design, tillers and other machinery are not used because they are absolutely not necessary and they do more harm than good. In fact, No-till gardening allows for natural aeration of the soil, promotes natural drainage, saves water, reduces the need to weed, reduces soil erosion, saves time and physical exertion, retains life, and eliminates the use of petroleum oil.

The beauty of this philosophy is that there is hardly any money or work involved, especially if you're using materials on your land to create a food forest.

No-till gardening allows us to build up an existing ecosystem by layering the soil with carbon ingredients (i.e. cardboard, leaves, pine needles, straw, newspaper), and nitrogen ingredients (i.e. compost, weeds, urine, humanure). Instead of tilling (which damages ecosystems and does not build up soil), layering of "ingredients" perfects the nutrition, aeration, drainage all while retaining enough moisture to save water.

picture from Eco Films

Also, cutting your grass with a lawn mower is unnecessary if you're utilizing every space of your property (or yard). Mowing a lawn does not create a beneficial habitat for insects and animals. Not only that, but there is a reason a Forest is dense and the ground is shaded. A shaded ground will compost material faster, holding nutrients in, while a shaved lawn will expose the ground to the Sun taking away nutrients from the soil. However with a Knife or clippers, pruning dead or over-grown weeds can be used as mulch.

Going back to the Forest, you notice there is hardly any grass growing, perhaps in patches. But a Forest floor has been taken over with abundance of Trees, shrubs, leaves, Flowers, rocks, moss, Fungi. All of these aspects create a self-healing (self-working) mechanism which you can benefit from. It only takes you to mimic the rules of the Forest, and plant these things.

There is no such thing as a Pest in Permaculture. All insects and animals have their place, and it is up to us to know the beneficial insects. For example, Praying mantis, Wasps, Granddaddy long-legs, lady bugs eat harmful bugs. Instead of spraying Brassicas with repellants, add sawdust (which slugs and caterpillars hate) around susceptible plants like Cabbage. Any Cabbage loopers or worms can be relocated onto their own Cabbage plant (separated from the garden).

Permaculturists have noticed that young or weak plants are more susceptible to insects eating an entire plant; it seems that the nutrition from the soil which produces large and healthy plants, will not be susceptible to insects.

Sometimes it's a matter of adding a native plant for the insects to eat. Many insects will avoid eating your food if you provide them with an alternative like a native plants (ild Mustard and Plantain weed). Marigolds are also beneficial in the garden. Growing Peppers, onions, garlic, and herbs around susceptible plants will also ward off harmful bugs.

The intention in choosing natives, medicinal herbs, and other plants is to grow those that serve many purposes. Many Permaculture gardens contain Moringa Oleifera-- known as the most nutrient rich plant in the world. The Moringa can be made into a compost tea to feed plants, or the cuttings can be used to mulch the garden which will still add nutrients. You can even make a tea out of the leaves for yourself. Fruit trees or usually serve many purposes, not to mention producing pounds of food, but provides shade for plants growing below.

Beans also serve many purposes, adding nitrogen into the soil for surrounding plants. For example in the Three Sisters method, growing Corn, Beans, and Squash in close proximity. The beans will act as Fertilize to the Corn while the Squash will smother out other intruding plants. The Corn acts as a pole for the Beans to crawl up as well.

Choosing plants that serve many purposes is similar to Companion planting. For instance, Carrots love Tomatoes, Roses love Garlic.

Picture from Two Little Men and a Farm

I have recently posted videos of other gardeners who transformed their backyard into a Food Forest, which you can see here: Val and Eli and Permaculture Trio. I highly recommend watching those videos because they will allow you to visualize some of the details I have outlined so far.

Another video I recommend (see below) discusses types/aspects of Permaculture, for example, Hugelkultur, Straw bale, Sheet Mulching, soil/compost bombing, Ruth Stout Method/Composting in Place, and living mulch systems:

As mentioned, recreating a layering system like a Forest provides much more benefits. For example smothering/preventing undesirable weeds and bugs, while retaining moisture and heat, including adding natural nutrition.

This layering (Sheet mulching) system mimics the leaf cover found on forest floors. By layering carbon and nitrogen material and other minerals, you are encouraging better nutrition as well as encouraging worms to thrive. Worms till and fertilize the soil for you.

Hugelkultur

During Fall and Winter, many plants are dying and Trees have overgrown which need to be pruned. Permaculurists call this process "Chop and Drop". If you watch the 'Val and Eli" video I provided in one of the links, you'll see the process of "Chop and Drop".

Any branches from a tree, or weeds, or dying plants can be chopped then used to mulch, giving back nutrition to a Tree or garden. Of course dead logs, sticks, and other plant cuttings can be used to make Hugelkultur beds. As the wood decomposes, the wood will feed and retain moisture for your plants in the dry season.

Also, these Hugelkultur mounds are making use of vertical space which saves garden area for more plants, trees, or bushes.

To see the Hugelkultur beds I started, watch the video here: Practicing Hugelkultur methods.

Another aspect of Permaculture design is diversity. A Forest maintains a wide diversity of plants in close proximity, like a polyculture system. For example, growing a Fruit tree, fruit bush, herb, flower, and Vining plant in a small area. Although in gardening, we tend to plant vegetables uniformly in single rows, like a monoculture of twenty rows of Corn or beans.

The picture below is a good representation of both Hugelkultur mounds and Polyculture systems.

Picture from All things plants

Many Permaculturists avoid tilling and mowing their garden. Not only is the equipment expensive, but also the energy needed to run those machines. It's an expense on your wallet and the environment. It's so easy to be reliant on this society for goods and services, but there has come a time we must create our own energy and abundance.

This method of gardening tends to re-seed itself. Growing fruit trees, fruit bushes, nut trees, herbs, and flowers will come back every year. There is no need in purchasing seeds as long as save seeds from fruits and vegetables to grow the following year. You could also add your food scraps to a compost heap while adding leaves throughout the Fall and Winter, then the seeds will germinate in the Spring and grow throughout the Summer.

As stated earlier, to have a thriving Perennial garden and healthy fruits and vegetables, you must mimic the Layering system like a Forest.

First start by continually adding mulch, compost, carbon and nitrogen material, and rock dust on your garden. Around your Fruit trees and bushes, add mulch, compost, and rock dust to keep the plants thriving-- adding nutrition in your food thus providing you more nutrients. It is no wonder our closest ancestors eat a plant based diet--they are genetically and physiologically meant to eat fruit, but also because these foods re-seed themselves without our assistance. Fruit, nuts, and wild greens are the most natural and ethical diet on the planet. That should be lineage enough to eat raw vegan.

Other aspects of Permaculture include Rainwater Harvesting and Natural building. For rainwater harvesting, dig out a small dip for a pond. With this, you'll be able to water plants all year. Having a pond will also encourage frogs to create a habitat and birds will be encouraged to take baths. Both of which will help you control harmful bugs.

Next, Natural building, refers to Housing built with readily available or recycled materials, specifically natural ingredients such as Clay soil, straw, sand, sod, rocks. A natural housing structure represents the land from which the materials were provided. This type of housing allows you to design with the curvature of the land, or build your house around a tree. These houses are nearly Free.

Cob houses are simply the most beautiful and useful piece of artwork. The picture below is a good example of natural housing made inexpensive, quick, and less materials.

Of course I am not a great resource to explain the details of Permaculture. I am ready to learn and put these practices to the test. After several years of Conventional gardening (i.e. tilling, plowing, shoveling, etc), I am reinventing my garden to create a Food Forest. My vision for the growing spaces I work on, is to continually plant Fruit trees and other Perennial fruits and flowers. You can see my current collection of Fruit trees in the post here Fruit trees and Fruit bushes we are currently growing. My goal is to harvest seed from fruit trees and berries which I will spread all over the yard.

So far I have the typical Fruit trees which you can grow for my area. Considering I live in a cold climate, I intend to invest in other cold tolerant Fruit trees and Fruit bushes like, Mulberries, Gooseberry, Persimmons, Elderberry, Raspberries, Huckleberries, Jostaberry, Currants, Chokeberry, Paw Paw. And I would like to add rare types Tropical fruit that has been bred to be Cold Hardy. I have so far bought Cold Hardy Fig Trees (known as the Chicago Fig), and I am growing Cold Hardy Kiwi vines. Another I would like to invest in is The Russian Pomegranate.

For more information about Permaculture, visit the Permies.com website where you will find an array of information on gardening, homesteading, natural housing, natural heating, frugal living, and more.

If you would like to add anything to this post, please leave a comment below.

Original post @ No money, work, or tilling involved: Permaculture

-Cassie K, Vegans Living Off the Land

Watching our gardens grow (total of 4 and a half gardens)

2014-05-29T02:24:21.000Z

I haven't been busy much in the garden, I have mostly been watching the plants grow. I still have left some tomatoes needed to be transplanted as well as melons and cantaloupe plants. Some of the tomatoes and pepper plants are going to take another two weeks before they are ready to transplant in the gardens.
As I mentioned in previous posts, I have four gardens this, with the addition of my cousin Lisa's garden I am tending to and adding a second garden at my Grandparents. I was able to directly sow corn, beans, and cucumbers a week ago at my cousin's; and two weeks ago I was able to plant corn and beans at my Grandparents, along with cucumbers, pumpkin, and squash.

Two weeks ago I transplanted 60 tomatoes into the garden, and two days ago I was able to transplant an additional 40+ tomato plants.
Two weeks ago I mentioned transplanting 80 cantaloupe plants. Unfortunately the location of the cantaloupe plants are not ideal, so they will be forgoing another transplant into a sunnier location (most likely where I have planted the corn and beans at my Grandparents).

Below I have posted recent developments in the garden...

The lettuces, spinach, and kale were directly sown one month ago and I have harvested four times in the last week from them. I will be able to continue picking from my greens everyday for the next two months.

Six rows of lettuces, spinach, kale, and peas

Buttercrunch lettuce

Spinach

Here are pictures of the lettuce harvests in the last few days and a photo of my first strawberry from our gardens.

First strawberry, and many more to come

Lettuce harvest

The potatoes have grown a foot or so since my last post. They will be ready in a couple months from now. The 125 lbs I planted in the garden is expected to triple (or at least double) the quantity. Possibly being able to feed off my potatoes for several months.

10 rows of potatoes

2 foot tall potatoes

My Cucumbers are a new addition, which have recently sprouted their third and fourth leaves. They should be putting off within the next month. It may be hard to tell in the photo, but the row of Cucumbers is over 30 feet long, approximately containing 400 seeds (perhaps only 200 plants will sprout). If half of the seeds I planted grow one cucumber, I will end up harvesting 200 cucumbers by end of July and August.
You can see in the picture below we have laid out cardboard to prevent weeds from intervening with the Cucumbers as they vine out.

Row of cucumbers with cardboard

Cucumbers

My Yellow & Zucchini Squash were young transplants, so they are quite small. Yet they have grown much in the last week due to the increase in night temperatures. I have eight rows of Squash as you can see in the picture below. (To the left of the Squash plants I will be growing more varieties of beans).

Squash had some difficulties with bugs

Squash

8 rows of yellow & zucchini squash

Other squash varieties I planted were Cushaws and Pumpkins. These are grown in a shady area of the garden, so they may be stunted.

Pumpkins

Below are pictures of my second garden at my Grandparent's property, where I have grown several rows of Corn and black eyed peas. As I have said I will growing more varieties of beans next to the Squash garden. Also in this Corn and bean bed I will transplanting Watermelon and Cantaloupe to the right of the black eyed peas.

And this is a little snapshot my cousin took of the beans I have growing at her house. Although the beans are only visible, she mentioned that the rows of corn and cucumbers were up as well. So I have two different gardens for cucumbers, corn and beans.

Beans

I haven't taken pictures of the Tomato and Cantaloupe progress because I am still working on these gardens. I have added more Tomatoes and need to transplant the Cantaloupe and Watermelon. Once this happens I will show progress photos!
Until next time, feel free to look at previous garden update posts.

Original post @ Watching our gardens grow from Vegans Living off the Land

Spring & Summer Garden Layout

2014-04-07T01:09:42.000Z

As you know I am not taking my trip across America, see post here.

New strawberry bed with my compost!

I have had much to do since I got back from NC. Now that I am back in KY, I have tilled one of my gardens which I will turn into a Melon patch (watermelon and cantaloupe).
I also had someone plow one of my gardens that I will be dedicating to corn, beans, and tomatoes.
The other day I collected leaves from the woods and brought down to one of my gardens. Yesterday in the same garden I started a fire to burn off some weeds around the outline of the garden.
Basically I am working with two additional gardens along with my usual three gardens. I have my Mom's backyard garden where I grew tomatoes and peppers last year. I will also be growing tomatoes and peppers there again. Also on my Mom's property I have a separate triangle garden where I grew broccoli and cabbage and lettuce last year, that I will be dedicating to melons this summer. I have added a raised bed over the winter where I will be growing more strawberries with my other strawberry patch (in the picture at right).

At my Grandparent's, I have my large garden where I will be growing greens, cucumbers, beans, squash, and potatoes. Plus I have a new garden at my Grandparent's (that I had plowed for corn, beans, and tomatoes).
My cousin Lisa still wants me to work on her garden, so I will have a fifth garden to work on that I will be growing beans and tomatoes in!
Overall I have five gardens with additional raised beds and fruit trees/bushes to tend to. My five gardens will be focusing on the staples: potatoes, beans, tomatoes, corn, lettuce, squash, cucumbers, peppers, and melons. These will be grown during the Spring and Summer. I will focus on root vegetables this Fall when I can construct additional raised beds. I will also be growing a continual supply of lettuce and tender greens throughout the year.
I am glad I chose to come back home to garden because I have many ideas and projects ahead of me!
Below I have a basic layout of my TWO MAIN gardens (Mom's and Grandparents):

One of my main gardens at my Grandparents

As you can see in the above picture, I have my main garden for squash, beans, lettuce, cucumbers, and potatoes. I have a new garden that will be growing corn but I may also grow beans and tomatoes in the patch. You can see I have some fruit around my Grandparent's too!

One of my main gardens at my Mom's

In the above picture, I have my main garden I am growing half tomatoes and half peppers. I also have a triangle garden dedicated to melons. You can see my raised beds for strawberries. I forgot to add my other raised bed I am using to grow herbs. You can also see my fruit and nut trees around the property.

Today I planted some watermelon seeds indoors, so I will be transplanting them at the first of May. Considering I have had a late start, I have not started any other vegetables indoors, so I am going to purchase or come across tomato starters. I will plant cucumbers, squash, beans, and corn directly in the ground.

Stay tuned for more updates, pictures, and tips. Check out my new video here where I demonstrate how I started watermelon seeds indoors.

I have included some of my best tips with starting seeds indoors within the video.

Remember to check out my other blog posts on gardening that will help you prepare, get started, and avoid gardening mistakes:

Gardening Mistakes 2013 & Tips + Photos
4 Mistakes I've Made as a First year gardener
My Vegan Garden Calendar for 2013
Grow Food in Feb, March, & April
What Vegetables to Grow in the Summer
Garden Prep (What I'm doing to prepare for Spring Gardening)
How to Plan your Summer Garden

Original post @ Spring & Summer Garden Layout from Vegans Living off the Land

Self Suficient society

2013-10-27T23:39:28.000Z

Good day guys,

I moved to Brazil from Canada about 3 months ago , and I am really loving it here. Perfect weather, lots of fruits and freshly grown veggies. The only problem that I found here is to find like minded people and organic produce.

I moved here because I was pretty excited with the idea to create a self sufficient living and eventually if things work out and if I meet like minded people, I'd like to create a self suficient society . Currently I am living in a 6 acres farm, growing lots of organic fruits and veggies :) will post some pics soon, please let me know if you guys share the same dream ..

Cheers

What vegetables to grow during the summer (May, June, & July)

2013-07-25T18:59:36.000Z

Original post @ Vegans Living off the Land

What vegetables to grow during the summer (May, June, & July)

Hello everyone! It has been several months since I lasted posted. Obviously, I have been keeping busy in the garden: hoeing, weeding, staking tomatoes and beans, and planning my Fall garden. I have also been remodeling my youngest brother's room (which has taken several weeks of my time.) Also, my Mother is working on her Masters, so I've been involved with helping her write essays. Moreover, I wanted to make sure I was able to reconnect with you all, and detail what I have been growing in my garden.

Within a couple of weeks I will do another entry that will list NEW practices I have learned as a gardener and highlight the mistakes I made this year that I will improve on next year. You can check out what I learned last year from my first time gardening, here "4 Mistakes I've made as a First-year Gardener"

Furthermore, the intention of this entry is to show you what I am currently growing and harvesting from this Summer's garden, and what food I was able to harvest from my Spring garden. Hopefully these pictures will inspire you to grow a Fall or winter garden, or perhaps inspire you to plan your spring and summer garden for 2014...Enjoy...

Basil, parsley, sage, and dill

Basil

Northern (white) beans

northern, kidney, pinto, and lima beans and black eyed peas

Beet greens

Harvested 10+ small heads of cabbage and beets from Spring garden

Broccoli/cabbage patch

Broccoli from spring garden...very delicious!

Broccoli

Broccoli head

butternut squash

Corn/okra/tomatoes

corn and okra

green peppers

hot peppers

rain barrels

lettuce, arugula, and spinach going to seed (the weeds have taken over!)

My partner and I also have a large watermelon and cantaloupe patch, but the location was not ideal. Melons need sandy soil, which I could not simulate for them this year. Perhaps next year I will ask a generous farmer if I can grow melons near his creek bed. Also close by the squash and melon patch is a large cucumber patch which is producing great! I'm eating lots of cucumbers and squash every day from my garden in the last two weeks. Being vegan is easy and inexpensive when you grow your own food!

zucchini/yellow squash/pumpkin/butternut squash patch

zucchini/yellow squash/okra

strawberry patch with 1 year worth of compost and pine needles

sunflowers...can't wait to eat the seeds!

tomatoes from our compost

tomatoes from a generous farmer

100+ tomato plants

"What are you going to do with all of them tomatoes?" says the meat-eaters

Sun-dried tomatoes, tomato juice, tomato soup, tomato salad, tomato sandwich - so many options!

Original post @ Vegans Living off the Land

What vegetables to grow during the summer (May, June, & July)

Uncommon cold hardy fruits

2013-05-29T03:21:19.000Z

Plant Pawpaws (aka the nothern banana) and other wild fruits all over the place. The Pawpaw is member of the tropical custard apple family (soursop, sweetsop, cherimoya) that has evolved to live in forests clear up into Canada.

http://ohiodnr.com/forestry/trees/pawpaw/tabid/5404/Default.aspx

http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2011/09/29/140894570/the-pawpaw-foraging-for-americas-forgotten-fruit

Plant Raspberries, Blackberries, Juneberries, Currents, Gooseberries, Mulberries, Nanking Cherries, Autumn Olive, Blueberries, Serviceberries, Persimmons, ...

Get the book: Uncommon Fruits for every garden by Lee Reich

Grow Food in March & April: Cold weather vegetables

2013-04-18T16:37:02.000Z

Original Post from Vegans Living off the Land @ Grow Food in March & April: Cold weather vegetables

I started on my cold crop garden in March and April, so here are some ideas of what you can grow during the Spring months in cold climates:

For now I am calling this my strawberry patch, but I may turn it into something else

my collard greens from last fall survived the winter, so I transplanted them for Spring eating

My partner tilled a spot in front of the house for our three blueberry plants; and we're still deciding what to do with our hardy Kiwi plants

As you can see I am growing cabbage, broccoli, arugula, lettuce, red onions, radishes, beets, and turnips for my Spring Garden

Here is my second Spring garden

Please visit my blog Vegans Living off the Land for more gardening tips and the Vegan lifestyle. More photos of summer garden COMING SOON!

Original post @ Grow Food in March & April: Cold weather vegetables

Food security research. Calling self sufficient vegan families! (Zone 8/9 and similar)

2013-03-02T19:36:16.000Z

My name is Isolda Heavey.

I am a student of MSc Architecture: Advanced Environmental and Energy Studies. It is a postgraduate degree from the University of East London, based at the Graduate School of the Environment at the Centre for Alternative Technology.

(http://gse.cat.org.uk/msc-architecture-advanced-environmental-and-energy-studies)

The course “provides a holistic approach to sustainable design, architecture and building whilst working with natural systems thinking and resources to develop a world where we respect our natural life support system and live within its limits.”

My background is in horticulture, specifically working within communities. I am raw vegan / Natural Hygienist living in Ireland.

I am preparing to do my thesis at the moment, my specific area of interest being food security and vegan food production i.e. sustainability.

I am looking for self sufficient / semi self sufficient vegan families to participate in my research. It will start ASAP and continue through the 2013 growing season.

Please let me know if you and your family would be interested in participating , if you have ANY suggestions or if you would like to hear more about the research hypothesis...

Many thanks in advance,

Issy

Greenhouse experience

2013-02-02T16:47:50.000Z

A greenhouse is more than just a protective bubble for pampered plants—it serves to coax the best out of the dedicated space and creates a pleasant, relaxing and productive environment. A greenhouse can be a beautifully lit, fantastically green, comfortable and airy space, or it can turn into every plant’s worst nightmare—baking in hot weather or dripping with condensation during wet season and cold in winter. The difference is all in the design.

If you have any opinions put it below. Details how to build this kind of structure cheap and easely can be found here:

https://sites.google.com/site/mywonderfulideas/garden/greenhouse-in-tropics

What you need for homesteading (Full list of materials and supplies)

2013-01-07T14:06:06.000Z

Original post @ "What you need for homesteading". If you're interested in more topics like this, please visit my blog @ Vegans Living off the Land

====================================================================

There are many questions to homesteading, especially since independence is somewhat a frightening concept. Homesteading takes much time to learn the skills and techniques that surrounding gardening, building, and crafting. Perhaps it will take you five to 10 years to become a proficient gardener. Likewise, homesteading is the "old" and "new way" of living; because we can learn from our relatives how to build a home and grow food; but we can also learn from young folks how to coincide sustainably with nature, humans, and technology.

At length, homesteading requires much dedication, investment, creativity, frugality, and resources. But, where do you start? Do I start looking for land for sale? How much time can I invest in building my home? How much time can I invest in growing a garden?

All of those questions will be answered or have been answered throughout my blog; but I want to use this blog post to point out a FULL LIST OF MATERIALS you will need for homesteading. This list will assist you in estimating your budget/investment. By providing you a list of supplies you will need, this will give you the opportunity to think creatively: what materials can I make? What materials can I borrow? And, what materials do I have to buy? For example, a ladder does not have to be purchased; instead, you can build your own ladder out of free recycled wood (found at pallet shops, sawmills, or pallets behind grocery stores.)

If you see something I missed, please comment below, and I will add it!

A
Ash (compost)
Axe

B
Bamboo (posts, stakes)
Barrels (Rain)
Batteries
Battery Charger
Beams (wood posts)
Books (philosophy, instructional, garden, fiction)
Bottles (starting seeds indoors)
Bricks (rock, stone)
Brushes (painting, plastering)

Buckets (5 gallon)

C
Calculator
Canner (pressure cooker)
Carpenter's Level
Cart (wheelbarrow)
Cellar (cold storage)
Chains
Chainsaw

Chairs (home)
Chalk line
Cheesecloth
Chicken wire
Clamshell digger (post hole)
Compost (organic)
CONTAINERS (unique gardening)
Cooler (food storing)
Crates (storage)
Cultivator (rototiller)

D
DC>AC inverter (solar panels)
Decor (outdoor/garden)
Dehydrator
Door (home)
Drill (speed)
Drill bits
Drums (55-gallon)
Duct tape

E
F

Fencing (wire)
Fertilizer (organic)
Forks (garden)
Freezer (cooler, food storage)
Froe

G
Galvanized screening (sifting)
Garden hose
Generator
Gloves
Goggles (safety)
Greenhouse(s)

H
Hammer
Handkerchief (cleaning tools)
Hand saw

Hose (garden)

Hoe

INTERNET

Jars (Mason)

K
Knife (utility)

L
Ladder
Level (carpenters)

M
Machetes
Mallet (wooden)
Marker pencil

Mattock
Measuring tape
Mulch

N
Nails

O
Organic SOIL
Outdoor Decor
Oven (made from sand, clay, & straw)

P
Pallets (recycled wood for trellis)
Pencils (marker)
Pickax
Pinch bar
Pitchfork
Plants (vegetable plugs, flowers)
Plastic sheeting (black & Clear)
Pliers
Pocket knife
Poles (posts, beams)
Post hole digger
POSTS (beams)
Pots (Flower, vegetable, herbs)
Pressure Cooker (canner)
Pruning shears
Pulaski

R
Rain barrels
Rake
Rock minerals (improving soil)
ROCKS (decor, building structures)

Rope
Roof structure (metal, shingles, lumber)
Root Cellar (cold storage)
Rototiller

Ruler (yardstick)

S
Safety goggles
Sand (for garden & home material)
Saw (hand or chain)
Saw horses
Screens (galvanized)

Screwdriver

SEEDS (flower, herb, veggie, fruit)
Shears (pruning)
Sheets (plastic, tarp)
Shovel
SOIL (organic gardening)
Solar panels
SPACE (for gardening)
Spades (digging)
Sponge (finishing interior of home)
Stakes (posts or poles)
Step ladder
String (hemp, rope)
Swanson square

T
Table (home)
TARP (plastic sheeting)
Tape measure

Tiller (rototiller)

Tool box
Trays (starting seeds)
Trellises (Arbors)

U
Utility knife

W
Watering system

Wheel barrel
Windows (home)
Wood mallet
Wood posts (beams for home)
Wood stove
Worms (compost)

Y
Yardstick (ruler)

Keep in mind, you may not need most of these items. In fact, you may not need windows, doors, or tables because you do not plan on making a home or shed.

Then again, if you are planning to build your own home, you may need MORE than what's listed above. A new home-owner needs silverware, kitchen appliances, bed sheets, pillows, etc. If you want to build your own home -- keep in mind that I have not listed exact building materials. Here is an idea of basic materials you may need for your home:

For the foundation of the house you may need rocks, bricks, concrete, or gravel. For structure of home (cob walls), you will need clay soil, sandy soil or sand, water, and straw. For roofing, you'll need lumber, poles, boards, and windows. Of course, you'll need glass or windows, doors, hinges, knobs, etc.

Again, if I missed an important tool or material, please comment below and I will add it to the list.

How much money have you invested in homesteading, so far? I have the luxury of borrowing most of my Grandfather's tools and supplies, as well as the space to grow food and build a home. I'm very fortunate for this!

If you're interested in more topics on gardening, homesteading, veganism, and healthy living, please visit my blog @ Vegans Living off the Land

Garden Prep (What I'm doing to prepare for spring gardening in DECEMBER)

2013-01-04T15:45:26.000Z

~~~Original blog post @ here from Vegans Living Off the Land

------------------------------------------------------------------------

On Friday, my partner and I had a surge of energy, so we cleaned up the yard, organized materials, burned recyclables for our garden so we could start prepping for Spring gardening. Technically, I will be gardening in February since I'll be starting Cabbage and Brussels indoors. In the first three pictures, you will see that I made seed starting trays out of and duck tape.

I always suggest to people they should use free, recycled, re-purposed materials to create your own tools/supplies.

To make these trays, cut off the head/lid of the water bottle, line bottles in rows, then tape.

Remember to puncture holes in the bottoms of each water bottle for drainage.

The is full of leaves that I raked up around the yard.

Compost should be 1(nitrogen):3(carbon) ratio. Compost needs to contain 1 part food scraps to every 3 parts of wood-based materials (leaves, sticks, bark, ash, paper)

This past summer I grew tomatoes, peppers, and beans here. Next Spring, I will be growing Cabbage, Brussels, and Broccoli here.


In the making of our herb garden. We had logs around our house from a tree we had to cut down.

More free materials!

As I said, I want to create a HEART-SHAPED FLOWER BED. I want it to look something like this, but with the bricks I have found around the yard:

Photo Source: Romantic Garden

Burning brush and wood from around our yard helps add nitrogen to our soil, and it also helps us to expand the garden.

The garden, on my Mother's property, is currently 35 ft long and 13 ft wide. We're expanding the garden by another 30 ft for maximum yields!

Below I have posted a video from growingyourgreens.com, where "John goes on a field trip to Orange County Farm supply to share with you their hanging vertical garden made from an old . In addition, John shares with you how to deal with pests in your garden organically without the use of man made chemical poisons. In addition you will learn the most important aspect of a vegetable garden the soil and the best nutrients to add to supercharge your plant growth to grow bigger and tastier fruits and vegetables":

If the video doesn't play, go to "Build a Hanging Vertical Pallet Garden to Grow Food on Walls" @ growingyourgreens.com on YOUTUBE.

~~~VISIT MY BLOG @ http://veganslivingofftheland.blogspot.com/

Original blog post below:

Garden Prep (What I'm doing to prepare for spring gardening in DECEMBER)

Spice up your YARD (& Free ways to decorate your yard)

2012-12-28T03:01:37.000Z

Original post here. Please check out my blog @ http://veganslivingofftheland.blogspot.com

for more tips on gardening and veganism. THANK YOU!

---

I know it's December, and planting food and flowers seems too far away to worry about; but thinking about these things ahead of time is very important to me (since I'll be planting cabbage and Brussels Sprouts as earlier as February next year!) December and January are the best months for planning; and hopefully I can encourage you to do the same ;)

SIMPLE & FREE WAYS YOU CAN SPICE UP YOUR YARD

I remember before I became a gardener, I wanted to transform my yard into a Japanese-secret-garden-scene. I love the mystery in a Japanese Garden; and actually my dream was (and still is) to be able to get lost in the never-ending paths of lush greenery. Doesn't everyone want to have a yard that looks like paradise?
To me, gardening is much more than growing free food; there is an artistic expression in gardening, in that we're creating life and beauty for everyone to admire...

Your home as well as your yard should be a place that comforts and relaxes you. And you can create this atmosphere in your yard by using free, re-purposed, recycled, and reused materials around you. I have two similar posts "Raised Bed Garden Ideas & Using Free materials" and "What's the best, free material to use for raised beds?" if you're curious to see how I used free materials around my house.

To all of you that want your yard professional-looking, I have listed methods on decorating your yard for free, as well as post pictures for inspiration and creativity:

1. ROCKS (or stones)

Rocks can be found (for free) in creek beds, around your house, and in the woods to decorate your yard. You can literally find big rocks anywhere you go. Rocks are also versatile to use when landscaping because you can create a raised bed (for growing food), rock paths, steps, walls, etc. With free rocks alone, I made a small patio and a raised bed!

Photo and post here @ HomeWorkshop.com

WANT TO DO THIS? TUTORIAL HERE @ "THE SAGE BUTTERFLY"

Photo and post here @ "Gardenerd"

Photo and post here @ Growing The Home Garden

Photo and post here @ Nature Photography Blog

Photo and post here @ Homesteading on the Internet

2. WOOD (Free pallets, logs, etc)

My partner and I built this!

Photo and post @ Curtis and Kaye Absher

Source: Instructables

Source: DIY Network

You could also use BAMBOO!

3. Homemade Ponds

Ponds are a great addition for an exotic appeal, to your yard; but they can also serve as a water source for your plants, veggies, and fruits.

Photo and post here

4. MULCH

Mulch is best used for adding nutrients to plants; preventing weeds from growing around your plants; and trapping moisture. Mulch can also be a very attractive way of landscaping your yard. Also, if you don't want to build raised beds (with pallets) or form a raised bed with rocks, you could PILE mulch in long rows without any materials to hold in the dirt/mulch for planting.

picture source here

5. Other props (think unique)

Photo and post here @ Under the Table and Dreaming. Check out Stephanie's post for more unique ways of displaying and growing food!

Photo and post here @ Under the Table and Dreaming

Find post and photo here @ Miss Thrifty

As I mentioned, I have two similar posts on re-purposing materials to grow food here: "Raised Bed Garden Ideas & Using Free materials" and "What's the best, free material to use for raised beds?"

Remember to use whatever materials are close to hand; and never buy anything new if you can reuse something old.

What you need to know about Compost (& doing it for free)

2012-12-09T16:36:23.000Z

Original post @ my blog here.

If you want more information about gardening, Veganism, and self-sufficiency, check out my blog @ Vegans Living Off the Land

Compost is a crucial aspect in gardening because it is FREE, ORGANIC, HIGH QUALITY material, that fertilizes your soil so you can enforce nutrition and strength to your plants. According to "Why Composting is Important" from Environment.gov website, up to 30% of the material we add to the landfill is organic materials that could be composted at home (i.e. dust, paper, and food scraps) for gardening. In other words, YOU should be composting to reduce the amount of waste you're adding to landfills, while you could be using that compost to grow food, for free, for you and your family. Using your own compost to grow your OWN food is the healthiest thing you can do for yourself and your family.

Items to Include In your Compost: Vegetable and fruit scraps, nut shells, dead flowers, urine, egg shells, newspaper, cardboard, grass clippings, leaves, wood ashes, human waste (preferably vegan), coffee grounds, and anything organic, natural, and that has not been chemically treated.

Items to Avoid Adding to your Compost: Meat, bones, cat or dog feces, paint, diapers, aluminum, plastic, charcoal ash, and anything that is un-natural or has been chemically treated. Aluminum and plastic should instead be recycled. It's interesting to note: if meat isn't biodegradable to the earth, how is it to your colon?

*Remember that you need THREE TIMES as much carbon material in your compost (i.e. hay, newspaper, dried leaves) as you do nitrogen material (food scraps, fresh grass, ash). For example, the carbon to nitrogen ratio should be 3:1.

Materials to Make Your Own Compost: Chicken wire, biodegradable material (food scraps, etc) wire, water, pitch fork (or something to stir compost with), black plastic sheeting (or other sheeting to cover and heat up compost), pliers (for manipulating the wire), and gloves (for safety.)Luckily, I found the posts, wire, and sheeting for my compost -- so I didn't have to purchase anything to create my compost bin. The best kind of gardening is free gardening, so try to find materials laying around your yard, your grandparents' yard, or the side of the road. There's so much material around us that we can reuse, but we would rather go out and buy them?

First, select a shady spot outdoors (away from your house and where water does not collect when it rains.) Secondly, you can make a square bin with posts to hold up four corners; or create a circular bin, without the posts. I have done the square bin (shown in the pictures above), leaving one wall open so that it is easier to fold and mix the compost.

You don't have to work the chicken wire and posts in the ground that much, because once you start adding your ingredients to the compost, it will become firm and "stuck" in the soil for support.

If you're making a large garden, you'll probably need two large compost piles, like mine. The dimensions on my compost are 3 feet long on all four sides and 2 feet high. And just this one compost pile will mulch and fertilize only a small amount of my garden. I would suggest two compost bins for big gardens; and a small container of compost for a couple of herbs in your kitchen.

Compost can be used in place of soil. If you don't have access to organic compost, potting soil, or potting mix in your community, all you need is compost. Actually, you can use compost in place of soil for starter plants.

Stir your compost once a week. Allow it to air out once a week for a couple of hours. And, keep it covered the rest of the time in order to heat up and decompose.

There are other benefits to compost, for example check out what my compost gave me in this post: Compost Your Food Scraps

5 Mistakes I've Made as a First-year Gardener

2012-12-09T16:22:50.000Z

Original post @ my blog 4 Mistakes I've Made as a First-year Gardener

If you want more information about gardening, veganism, self-sufficiency, and other tips, check out my blog @ Vegans Living Off the Land.

Here are some of the stupid mistakes I made; and hopefully I will be saving you from the same mistakes I made:

1. Started root vegetables in starter kits. Root vegetables should be directly sown into the ground they intend to mature in. There isn't enough room for their roots to develop in a small space (starter kits.) Consequently, I wasted about 25-30 seeds trying to start beets, onions, carrots, and greens in starter kits because I was trying to be "prepared."

2. Didn't water starter plants as much as they needed. I watered my starter plants everyday or every other day, which seemed to be working fine until the days started getting hotter, sunnier, and my starters were getting bigger. As I was being conservative with water, I was taking away water from my plants. Remember to water your starters everyday, especially if you're leaving them outside to catch sun. They like a little water in the morning and in the evening (if they need it.)

3. Let bugs eat up my broccoli and cabbage! The only two broccoli and cabbage plants I have of each are ate up by bugs, and I let it happen! I tried sprinkling cayenne pepper on their leaves and on the soil around them, but I done this sparingly (not enough to keep the bugs away forever.) It's important when you're food is growing exceptionally well that you take care of it...treat it like a Princess :)

4. Starters didn't get as much sun as they needed. I sort of blame the lack of space to keep my starter plants, for not being able to give proper sunlight. I made it my chore to move the plants from inside to outside where they would get the most sun and fresh air, since my house is very dim. Although I made sure to give them sunlight, I regret to say I wasn't giving the plants enough fresh air and sun until they're later stages of growth. Luckily, I have everything growing in the garden, so I'm not worrying with pesky starter plants :P

5. Planted winter greens and root vegetables in a shady location for my fall garden. Some greens and vegetables can handle a little shade during the summer, when the heat and sun is more intense, but during the FALL -- do not plant in a shady location. I didn't realize where I was planting was SO SHADY. Consequently, my greens are taking FOREVER to mature. Remember to plant EVERYTHING you grow in a sunny location, especially during the fall & winter months.

I'm lucky to not have damaged my plants by these mistakes. That's not to say that these mistakes wouldn't kill a plant, though. Make sure to give your starters lots of sun, fresh air, space, and water everyday! Don't discriminate between plants -- all plants love these four things. Also, keep your pests away from your plants, or all your hard work will be given to them! I use red pepper, cayenne pepper, black pepper, and vinegar to deter pests naturally.

Click here for tips and how to avoid making mistakes as a gardener. I highly recommend you visit the website because it gives a large amount of information that is crucial for good gardening and homesteading.

Vegan Garden Calendar (How to eat for free & what to grow all year ) + TIPS!!

2012-12-09T01:52:54.000Z

Hello everyone! It's December, and I want everyone to be prepared for growing food as early as January, next year!! I originally posted "Vegan Garden Calendar (How to eat for free & what to grow all year) @ http://veganslivingofftheland.blogspot.com/2012/11/world-vegan-mont...

Make John Kohler happy, and grow some food for yourself!

Please check out my blog for more gardening, and healthy living tips @ http://veganslivingofftheland.blogspot.com/

NOW THEN...I want to first mention that I am speaking for my own Gardening Zone: I live in Zone 6, which has mild summers and winters; thus most of you will be able to plant around the same time as I am. I'm going to give you a run-down on what I'm going to plant, and when. Keep in mind, if you live in a warmer location (Zone 7-9) you can plant earlier than me and if you live in a colder location (Zone 1-5), then you may want to delay your planting by a couple of weeks:

January

Use this month to prep your garden or prep a room that will be used for starting veggies indoors. Also, make a list of supplies or seeds you may need: I bought a variety pack of organic, non-gmo, non-hybrid seeds of all the vegetables, fruits and greens I have listed, here for $22.

February

Cabbage has a long growing season, so it will be started indoors during the middle of the month. I will be starting cabbage somewhere around the 15th of February. Expect the seeds to germinate between 5-10 days. You can get more info about how to germinate cabbage seeds and other seeds here. Secondly, Brussels Sprouts resent heat, which is why I'll be directly plating Brussels in my garden at the beginning of February (February 1st-4th.) Brussels also take 90-120 days to mature, thus harvesting them at the beginning of May (May 4th.) You could also start Brussels indoors four to six weeks before transplanting them in February.

March

Onions can be started indoors eight to 10 weeks before the last expected frost (I will be starting my onions indoors on March 1st. Secondly, Celery has a long growing season, taking between 90 and 120 days to mature, so start indoors at during March 11th-15th. Then Moreover, you can directly sow Kale, Spinach, Broccoli, Peas, and Potatoes when you start Celery on March 15th. At the end of the month, start Peppers (cayenne, green, jalapeno), Tomatoes, and Eggplants indoors, around March 30th.

April

Transplant the Cabbage and Onions to the garden after four to six weeks (April 15th.) Directly sow Beets, Carrots, Spinach, and Lettuce during April 11-15th in your garden. These have the shortest growing season. Also, you will need to start your melons (Pumpkins, Watermelons, and Cantaloupe) at the end of the month, around April 30th.

May

Transplant Celery on May 15th. Directly sow lettuce, yellow squash and zucchini, and sweet potatoes on the 13th. Follow that by directly planting Cucumbers, Carrots, Corn, and Beans on the 15th. And, transplant Tomatoes, Peppers, and Eggplant on May 30th.

June

Start Cabbage and Cauliflower indoors for a winter harvest; and transplant Melons to the garden at the beginning of June, around June 3rd.

July

Transplant Cauliflower around July 3rd-8th. And, directly sow Lettuce in your garden on July 15th-20th.

August

Transplant your winter Cabbage on August 1st, along with planting Frisee, Kale, and Swiss Chard on the 1st. Broccoli, Carrots, Beets, Radishes, and Turnips on the 15th of August. Spinach is to be directly sown a week after you plant your Broccoli, around August 22nd. Harvest these crops around October.

TIPS:

If you live in Zone 7 or higher, you'll be able to grow greens up to November -- Lucky you!

Remember that all plants have special needs, so do some research with each of the crops I have listed. Also remember that even if certain plants are heat intolerant, they still love sun and water.

Grow all your crops in locations that get sun, and perhaps partial shade in the late afternoon.

Water plants 1-3 times a week, depending on the temperature and drainage of soil. Water plants in the early morning or late evening so that you are not scorching them during the hottest time of day, with water.

Keep in mind, this is my gardening calendar for Zone 6. You can find what gardening Zone you are here, and you will able to know exactly when YOU will need to plant. Obviously if you live in a warmer climate than Zone 6, you may be able to grow a week or two before me; and if you live in a colder climate like Zone 3-5, you will need to plant a couple of weeks later.

You don't need a big yard to garden. You can grow many greens (spinach, lettuce, etc) in pots, water bottles, and buckets to save space, if you live in an apartment. Dwarf fruit trees could also be grown indoors in a VERY warm and sunny location. I have a post on space saving ways to garden here.

MORNING OF THE EARTH GATHERING - BYRON BAY, AUSTRALIA - A RAW FOOD PERMACULTURE FREEDOM DANCE RETREAT IN AUSTRALIA NOV 28-JAN 9

2012-11-06T23:06:41.000Z

MORNING OF THE EARTH GATHERING 2012

FIND US ON:

DETOXIFICATION CEREMONY CELEBRATION REGENERATION COCREATION

We are Ocean lovers who went inland to make sanctuary and build a tribe!

Join us as we plant our first forest and dance our freedom!

A BioSpiritual Permaculture Event In Wild Horse and Wild River Mountain Country, West of Byron Bay, Australia

FOREST TRIBE PEACE - DANCE!

Build Forest
Weave Tribe
Seed Dreams
Dance your Freedom
Make Peace

Sacred Solstice 2012 Retreat Program at OneSong Wilderness Sanctuary.

Stay 1-5 weeks - design your retreat time with us.. there are other interesting events in the area you can weave into your summer...

In ancient times in Australia, Earth peoples spent their days communing with nature and nights dancing and singing sacred songs by the fire. At Onesong Sanctuary , we invite you to the wilderness, to tribe, to dance, to multi-dimensional consciousness, and full spectrum regeneration.

Make no mistake, this is not a festival.
This is a sanctuary deep in the wilderness where the river runs free and the horses run wild.
There is deep peace here. IF your spirit is called and you are following the rainbow bridge of Gaia Rising, with nature as guide, then you will find sanctuary here.

Rest, regenerate, cocreate. Go within and express without. Weave your wonder together in simple sacred sanctuary.

We do it together. We create the culture , we dive deep into ceremony and we heal the land as she heals us..

We invite you to gather with us to build tribe and make peace as we build a memorial food forest to mark this magical solstice time as a living memory to future generations.

We invite you to garden with us in the wilderness by day and dance with us under the stars by night.

We invite you to explore yourself as a keeper of the elements, to be warmed by the sunshine, dance in the clean air, swim in the pure river and put loving hands in the soil.

We invite you to sleep under cover of the great southern starry sky and witness the ancient message during this amazing time on Mother Gaia.

As we build soil and create a food forest we dream, bond, share and inspire.

As we heal our wounds, we ignite our gifts. As we witness each other, we reconnect to the Earth, as we sleep under the stars, we become the light that we are.

Join us in this sacred time in 2012 - experience yourself as a Dreamweaver, an Earthkeeper and a Peacemaker. Plants some sacred seeds for a bright future in this Golden Time.

CEREMONY CELEBRATION REGENERATION COCREATION

Live completely off-grid for 1-5 weeks - your choice
Be a full-spectrum regenerator in residence.
Live and learn sacred permaculture and participatory design in raw nature and tribe culture
Living with the elements in a profoundly simple way
An introduction to regenenerative leadership culture
Cocreate social ecology and tribe building
Learn, share and experience composting, forest gardening, living off-grid, solar power, biodynamics, raw vegan, eat as you breathe, detox support, vision questing.
Everyones gifts are valued, everyones dreams are witnessed.
Together we dance, together we garden.

November 28-Dec 5 LAST FULL MOON BEFORE SOLSTICE - Sacred Permaculture - Preparations for Questing - 7 days
December 5-19 Tribe Vision Quest - 14 days* (Sacred Preparations is a prerequisite)
December 19-26 Sacred Solstice Sanctuary 7 days
December 26-Jan 9 Forest Gardening, Horse Dreaming and Ecstatic Dancing 7-14 days.

COST $350/week all inclusive - food, camp site and program - most of this cost goes directly to Fire wheel Nursery for the purchase of Forest Trees that we will be planting together.

WATER: Wild River Water, bring a filter if you are not accustomed to living water
FOOD: Mostly Raw, Organic Vegetarian and participate in our Cooperative Kitchen and Farm Store that we will run together as a tribe
We encourage a simple raw mono diet with limited preparations to heighten your wild sensitivity and connect you with the elements. Wherever you are at with your health, this retreat will support a major upgrade ...
( strictly organic vegetarian).
Fresh organic eggs and magical produce from our garden..

Arrivals and Departures to OneSong occur only on Wednesdays - min stay is 7 days unless specified*.

***No Mobile reception, or power available. We are OFF GRID.

This is a drug and alcohol, meat, chemical and toxin free sanctuary. Comprehensive Guidelines to living in sanctuary will be provided at registration to make your stay and connection with the land beautiful and graceful....

BRING YOUR GIFTS, INSTRUMENTS, POETRY, STORIES, SKILLS AND DREAMS!!!!

Plant medicines for ceremony are welcome in consultation with our program coordinator.

www.biospiritualpermaculture.com
www.biospiritualpermaculture.net
www.nohasark.com.au

contact billawilla@gmail.com for registration and more info..

Blessings for this magical time on the Earth, the Morning of the New Earth.. 12:12

Raw Vegan Bio degradeableish stuff

2012-07-05T18:18:32.000Z

Any to stop destroying our little planet

Growing food indoors?

2012-05-08T19:57:04.000Z

Are their any other fruits that one can grow inside, are not too hard to care for and/or can produce many fruits?

If so, I am grateful for every bit of advice.

Many thanks in advance. :)

alohhhha

2012-04-12T17:12:35.000Z

finding a landcreating aforest garden and being surrounded with friends whoo create thie forest garden and reating a communal center where we all meet and celebrate i my dream! i live in thealpujarras spain and i am interested in your project... do u have any fotos of the finca?

Composting to make Humus - Tropical PErmaculture Raw Food Retreat Costa Rica

2012-03-22T17:17:53.000Z

www.farmoflifecr.com

www.fincadavica.com

Ancient / Old Skills

2011-11-19T14:02:25.000Z

Is any one an expert in any old skills

Undeveloped Land in Portugal! - Welcome to Quinta Vegan

2011-03-31T20:58:10.000Z

About 20 acres near Vilo do Bispo is the preferred site, we are ironing out some details. All Raw community using permaculture to become self sufficient, the land is a blank canvass. We intend to become as off grid as possible and host a free food festival every year once we are established and become a community that will encorage old skills.

So far we have 2 people confirmed and a few dozen thinking it over, start should be approximately August 2012.

We are looking for workers, skilled and unskilled as an when we can afford it. We will have some cash to start a load of planting and organising the ground initially.

So if you would be interested in spending some time creating a Permaculture Farm in Portugal and would be happy to work for free to create a little piece of Paradise in Europe then join the discussion.

Stay for a few days, a few weeks or stay for a year or live, its up to you

There is a blank canvass waiting in Portugal for anyone who wants to live the life instead of talking about it.

Is anybody on 30 BAD living Self sufficiently

2010-09-17T19:56:36.000Z

I have started looking into becoming self sufficient recently and wondered if anyone on 30 Bad is already or thinking about it?